As soon as the wire is inserted, remove the soldering iron to reduce the heat exposure time of the plastic insulation. Re-heat each cup, one at a time, and push each tinned wire into the correct cup.Fill the three cups in the connector with solder.It might be better if you melt the solder on the iron before touching the wire to the melted solder (just to reduce the heat exposure time of the plastic insulation). Strip the two insulated wires to reveal 1/8th of an inch (3mm) of bare conductor on each.Cut the two insulated wires inside to the appropriate dimensions.If it's a foil shielded cable, just cut off the foil and use the bare drain wire. Here's how I would do one of these foamed-insulation cable (or even a polyethylene one). The secret is to heat up and melt the connector and NOT the wires. Well, you might have to practice this a few times, but it's not as impossible as you might think. So how do you go about soldering the un-solderable? The capacitance of these cables is a very low 13 pF/foot or 43 pF/meter. Heating that up even slightly allows the bubbles of nitrogen in the foam to pop, and the insulation will disappear before your eyes. The insulation on the two wires is foamed polyethylene. The largest tradeoff between performance and ease of soldering is with digital mic cables, such as 1800F or 2221. Polyethylene, even better in performance at 20 pF/foot or 66 pF/meter is famous for falling off the wire with only a little heat. You can melt that insulation off in a few seconds, which would require you to do the connector over again. The next cable insulation is polypropylene, about 30 pF/foot or 98 pF/meter. So, if it was really easy to solder that mic cable, chances are, it's not very good performance to begin with. But PVC is very resistant to heating, so it is a joy to solder. ![]() High capacitance dramatically limits how far you can go on a cable. When used as insulation in a twisted pair, it produces very high capacitance (around 50 pF/foot or 170 pF/meter). This makes them great to solder with.Įven lower in performance is PVC, a common material used for the outside jackets of many cables. Once these have been "vulcanized" or cured, there is no going back. Where you can re-melt and reuse plastics, the whole idea behind recycled plastics, the same is not true of rubber and related compounds, such as EPDM, artificial rubber. Rubber, after all, is not a thermoplastic, it is a "thermoset" material. You might eventually burn through them, but it would take a while. If you have rubber insulated singles, such as Belden 8412 or our new super-strong 1776, you could hold a soldering iron on these wires for a long time. ![]() The lower the quality (not the price, mind you, but the performance of the cable), the less likely it is to melt. And the problem is, the higher the performance of the cable, the more likely that plastic is to melt. ![]() Foremost is the tendency of some plastics to melt when heat is applied. However, I wanted to add some comments which are not addressed in the video.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |